Reverse welting and method of making



Dea. 18, 1928 H. LYON REVERSE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING Filed Oct. 7,1925 Patented Dec. 18, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.'

HARRY LYON, OF HOLBROOK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO PERLEY E. BARBOUR,

- F QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS.

REVERSE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING.

Application filed October 7, 1925. Serial No. 61,065.

This invention relates to welting of that general type which is providedwith a bead arranged to lie againstthe shoe upper in the crease betweenthe upper and the sole, this head being formed, according to the presentinvention, by bending the inner edge portion of the welt strip upwardly,this construction being called for convenience reverse welting, incontra-distinction to the well known construction where the upper edgeis bent downwardly to receive and be attached to the outer sole. As

this action exposes the inner, edge of the welt, provision is madeacfording to this invention for so forming this portion of the stripwhen made of leather that it presents over the surface exposed when thewelt is in use, grain surfacing material similar to that presentedoutwardly of the bead. F urthermore, the welt is so constructed that thestitch line at which the welt is fixed to the shoe forms a natural foldline so that the strip is fixed to the shoe in flat condition and whenits outer edge is brought into a plane for attachment to the outer sole,this folding of the strip is effected.

For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be hadto the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a cross sectionthrough the blank strip from which the welt is formed.

Figure 2 is a similar section showing the manner in which the blankstrip is cut.

Figure 3 is a similar section showing por tions of the cut strip foldedto final position, the strip being then ready for attachment to a shoe.Figure 4 is a fragmentary cross section through a shoe showing the weltin position therein. i

Referring to these drawings, the blank from which the welt is made issubstantially rectangular in cross section, as shown at 1 in Figure 1. Aportion of one edge of the strip is then cut away as shown at 2 inFigure 2, leaving a thin layer 3, from the grain face of the strip whenleather is used, ex-

tending beyond the surface left by the cut away portion which. surface,however, is somewhat longer than the flap and terminates toward theopposite edge of the blank in a shoulder 1. Between this shoulder andthe strip 3 an incision is made at 5 in the opposite face of the welt,and a portion of general segmental shape is cut therefrom,

defining a rounded groove 6 overwhich extends a flap 7. This flap isthen pressed downwardly against the base of the groove 6, as shown inFigure 3, and is fixed thereto, so as to form a somewhat smallerlongitudinally extending groove 8 in the upper face of the welt,surfaced entirely by grain stock. The flap 3 is then bent downwardlyagainst the surface formed by the cut away portion 2 and may be cementedin position thereon as shown in Figure 3, the edge of the flap as at 9terminating somewhat short of the shoulder 4, leaving a recessed portion10 in the lower-face of the welt substantially opposite. to the groove8, this recessed portion and the groove thus defining a thin portion ofthe stock through which the inseam stitches 12 pass when the welt is inposition on the shoe as shown in Figure 4 and also defining a weakenedfold line for the welt. The welt in flat condition is attached to theinner sole with the upper materials 21 and 22 interposed therebetweenand lying in the recess 10 by the stitching 12 extending through'theapex of the fold angle, the finished edge portion 23 of the flat weltstrip surfaced. by the flap 3 extending upwardly against the outer faceof the upper materials at substantially right angles to the plane of theinnersole.

After the welt has been stitched in position as just described its loweredge is bent outwardly, as shown in Figure 4, to form an outwardlydirected flange portion 25 substantially in the plane of the inner-soleand to this flange portion the outer sole 26 is then attached by the outsole stitches 27. It will thus be seen that the longitudinally extendingrib lying against the upper materials is formed by the inner edge of thewelt strip upwardly turned, the welt being in flat condition when fedthrough thesewing. machine in' position to be attached by the inseamstitches to the innersole and upper material and that this head presentsover its entire exposed portion represented by side and edge faces thegrain surface of the stock where leather is used, vthis surface being acontinuation of that presented by the upper face of the welt outwardlyof the bead.

Having thus described an embodiment of his invention, it should beevident to those skilled in the art that various changes andmodifications might be made therein without departing from its spirit orscope as defined by the appended claims.

I claim: 1. A welt haying inner and outer marginal areas ofv unreducedthickness and a substantially central weakened longitudinal portion toreceive attaching, stitches and at which it islaterally folded topresent upwardly. and outwardly extending" edges when in position in ashoe.

2. A leather welt constructed to be folded laterally when in position ina shoe, the inner edge portion lying in the crease against the shoeupper, said inner edge portion presenting over its side and edge faces agrain 5. A leather reverse welt having a longitudinal stitch-receivingrecess substantially centrally of its grain side defining also a foldline, and a grain covering layer'about its inner edge.

6. A leather reverse welt having a central longitudinal weakened areadefininga fold line, said weakened area on the grain side forming astitch-receiving groove, and a grain covering in said groove and aboutthe inner ed e of the welt.

7. A shoe having a welt bent laterally to form an upstanding innerportion resting 1n the crease against the shoe upper and an outwardlyextending outer portion to which the outer sole is attached, the inseamstitching of the shoe passing through said welt and lying within theangle formed by bending said inner and outer portions, said welt hav inga stitch-receiving groove in its upper face at the apexof said angle. I

8. A shoe .having a welt bent laterally to form an upstanding innerportion resting in the crease against the shoe upper and an outwardlyextending outer portion to which the inseam stitchthe outer sole isattached,- I ing of the shoe passing through said welt and lying withinthe angle formed by head ing said inner and outer portions, said welthaving astich-receiving groove in its upper said groove,

face at the apex of' said angle, and "alsp being recessed on its innerside opposite to the adjacent upper materials lying in said recess. Q A

9. The method of forming a stitch-receiving groove. which comprisescutting inwardly from. one face of the stock and removing a strip ofmaterial from beneath said face through said out to leave a surface flapextending over a channel formed by the removal ofsaid strip from oneside, and

v channel.

portion of by the adjacent then pressing said flap to the base of said10. The method of forming a welt which comprises cutting away the stockfrom one edge portion of a blankstrip to leave a thin layer forming acontinuation of the surface the-remainder of, said strip on one side anda depression on the opposite side, bending saidthin layer over saidcutaway portion and into the depression whereby the adjacent edge of thestrip is surfaced by said layer, and forming a stitch-receiving I grooveon the opposite face of said strip.

11. The method of forming a welt which comprises cutting away the stockfrom one edge-portion ofa blank strip to leave a thin layer forming acontinuation of the surface portion of the remainder of said strip onone side and a depression on the opposite side, bending said thin layerover said cut away portion and into the depression whereedge of thestrip is surfaced by said layer, and forming a stitch-receiving grooveon the opposite face of said strip, said surface layer being ofsuch-length as to leave an unfilled portion of the depressionsubstantially opposite to said groove, said groove and unfilled portiondefining a fold line extending longitudinally of the welt.

12,.The method of making welt shoes which comprises forming alongitudinal groove in that face of a welt strip to be exposed inthe.finished shoe, fixing said strip to an innersole and upper materialsby an exposed line of stitching lying in said groove, bending up thelower edge portion of the welt along the groove into substantially theplane of the innersole, ing an outer sole-thereto.

13. The method of making welt shoes which comprises feeding andattaching a welt strip to the margin of an innersole and interposedupper material while held in a plane substantially perpendicular to theplane of said innersole, bending the lower portion of the welt outwardlyinto substantiallyv the plane of said innersole, and fixing the marginalportions of an outer sole thereto. I

14. A leather reversewelt characterized and attachl by a body having athin layer extending from its inner edge on the grain side and adaptedto be folded to lie against said inner edge of the body, and astitch-receiving gr(pove substantially centrally of its grain s1 e.

15. A leather reverse welt characterized by a body having a longitudinalweakened area intermediate its edges to permit folding, and a grainsurface covering its inner edgecomprlsing a portion of the grain side ofthe welt body.

In testimony whereof Ihave affixed my signature. J

. HARRY LYON.

